Gung-ho for the Gun Inn?
As soon as the landlord mentioned that his “staffy” a Staffordshire terrier, was in the pub somewhere, It confirmed that I knew it was a place in which I did not want to be . The signs were there. A putrid pile of sweating meat in a bowl by the fireplace, a clientele with more than their share of tattoos, shaved heads and no stranger to extra, extra-large t-shirts and earrings, the swirly carpets and the endless stream of battered cod, chips and garden peas emanating from the kitchen should have given it away more quickly.
We were in Findon, a pretty Sussex village close to where we had been walking in the South Downs. Breakfasting large and late precluded any thought of lunch, but the walk up the hills had built up a nice thirst, and from the outside the pub, that I shall not name, looked inviting. It was just the type of people it had invited that was the problem. Salt of the earth no doubt, but Sky TV on a screen in the bar? There were unlikely to be any contenders for a Currencies Direct account here. They probably thought forex was a pint of lager.
Just before entering council house heaven, we had popped into the Gun Inn in the same village, which could not have been a more different experience, but that is the kind if thing that will happen when on pub reconnaissance. “Pub Of The Year” awards on the door created the right impression, several real ales on tap, including my current third favourite, Ringwood bitter, charming and attractive staff who were concerned that we may have wanted to eat as they were fully booked. The pub has been bookmarked for lunch at some stage in the future, whereas the other one is off my list forever.
Arriving back in Arundel to find The White Hart curiously quiet, the effect of the closure of their restaurant, Boca Nuevo, perhaps having some effect, we decided to walk up the Kings Arms for a pint of London Pride, where we met the Charlie “Pistorius” Malcolmson and his beautiful and beautifully formed wife Ally, who were, for once, on the right side of the counter, enjoying a quiet drink. We resolved to redouble our efforts to rekindle enthusiasm for the Arundel Luncheon Club, of which all four of us are founding members, and set a date, the 14th August, to reconvene. There are very strict membership criteria required in order to join; one must be a publican or their wife, seasoned music business veteran, nice decorating personnel, or anyone else who is available to have lunch when the club meets.
But now to a more sober affair, literally. Today has been set aside as a dreaded diet day. The 5:2 diet, as its name suggests, requires the dieter (in this sad case my good self) twice in each week, to take in no more than 600 calories in a twenty-four hour period. I have changed the bathroom scales as the previous ones had become old and unreliable, but I am unhappy to have to report that the new digital ones are no better, still giving obviously wildly inaccurate readings, and being entirely responsible for the almost nil by mouth regime I am forced to endure. I say sober because a pint of proper beer or a decent sized glass of wine is 170 calories, which would mean that if one restricted the entire daily allowance to beer or wine, three and a half of either would have you pushing the limit. In my weakened state, I hope to speak to you all tomorrow, but cannot be certain.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
The tide is high, I’m holding on
There is a pub near Chichester on the banks of the river called Anchor Bleu. Quite why it would have a French name is a mystery to me, but it is a lovely pub and was on our way back from the New Forest. I wanted to go there as I had never seen it at high tide and it was very high as my picture today illustrates. There is a road that runs alongside the pub which provides parking at low ride, but is covered when the tide comes in. There is normally a temptation to park there for free and hope you are ready to leave before its is too late. Yesterday we used the nearby pay and display car park. I think it was a wise decision.
With blue skies starting the day whilst we had breakfast, the theory of Sod meant there was a mean and spiteful shower just as we left the hotel, but it cleared in time to partake of the normal morning march, this time in the often squelchy but beautiful New Forest.
Exercise dealt with, we decided to meander back along the English Riviera in search of somewhere nice to have lunch. It was a tough call as Portsmouth and Southampton don’t exactly conjure up visions of palm trees and golden sun-kissed beaches. After some exploration of the local coastline, where we also crossed Emsworth off our list of places to visit, and a quick pint at the Anchor Bleu, we went to an old favourite, the Crown and Anchor at Dell Quay, for a spot of lunch. Some writers of a lesser calibre than the author of this column might have observed that by visiting two pubs having the word Anchor in their names, we were anchoring after something, but luckily poor puns such as this are avoided in this daily missive.
It was a good lunch of roasted loin of cod (a posh name for fillet) on a fish broth with mussels and hake, but as far as I could tell without the hake. However, replete, we headed back to Arundel, where the White Hart was calling our name. In the pub was local singing sensation, and log delivery man, the man with the sideburns, Screaming Lez, together with his boss, Acker The Log, a man whose deep Sussex accent makes understanding him quite difficult, at least until there is money involved. Luckily we have already paid him for the logs, and we remain in blissful ignorance of exactly what he was saying. Articulate and animated, I am certain that whatever he was saying about the production of charcoal would have been very interesting had I understood it.
If the Reverend Jeff is to be obeyed, then today, being a Sunday, is a day of rest, so I shall refrain from exhorting those of you who have not yet opened an account with Currencies Direct from doing so. I politely declined That Nice Lady Diet Enforcers suggestion that, after the last few days of excess, we should embark on another 5:2 diet day. Luckily the bathroom scales, unusually, were on my side and so a day of misery was put off until tomorrow. In celebration, I shall be angling to have lunch out somewhere, in order to be fed up properly before I get really fed up tomorrow. I quite fancy walking over to the George and Dragon at Houghton, but unless we can get a taxi back with the pesky dog, I suspect that it is a pub too far. Perhaps we should walk to the George at Burpham? It would be high in my list as it does not welcome dogs, but at heart I am a coward so don’t plan to suggest it.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
3 legged whippet: road kill rescue?
I needed that pint. Setting off from Glastonbury with a slightly sore head after overdoing it at the Wild Willy Barrett extravaganza the night before at Hawthorns, we decided to go to see Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door, for no other reason than we could.
The Jurassic Coast is very beautiful and I was in need of some exercise after the excesses of the day before. It is a mere mile and a quarter from one to the other so we set off up the steep hill that separates them. All was fine until the rain started. It was gentle to begin with so we struggled on, arriving at our destination just as the wind got up and the rain gods decided to become very excited. By the time we got back, and it took us an hour, we were exhausted, wet through and thirsty.
Earlier in the day we had gone Tory. The Glastonbury Tor ( a Celtic word meaning hill, apparently) is a prominent lump of rock sticking its head up from the Somerset marshes, some 500 feet above sea level. It seemed a good idea to climb to the top, an idea which I did not formulate. From that observation, I assume you will be able to work out who did.
At least during that hill climb it did not rain, anyway, we found a pretty pub called The Castle Inn but it was too late for food so we had that pint and set off for Swanage and Studland where we had half an idea to find a hotel. We could not. We went to village after village, again no hotel vacancies. I was becoming pessimistic when I saw a hotel called The Halfway Inn. I am not sure whether it could be considered optimistic or pessimistic to be half way in, and being still damp from earlier exertions (!) I was in a pessimistic mood. I even thought fleetingly about joining a pessimists club but thought I would not be able to get in. Anyway, when that was full, that was when we decided to get the ferry to Poole and head to the New Forest.
There is supposed to be a recession and as a result hotels are said to be suffering, but the only people suffering were us, in the dark and the rain without a hotel room, and an hour and a half from home, still looking for somewhere to have lunch! The last hotel in Brockenhurst, The Rosé And Crown was our salvation with one room remaining and although it would not have been my first choice, it did the job. Thus this morning, we may get the opportunity for a walk in the New Forest.
Anyway, after depositing bags in the room, we popped into the nearby Snake Charmer pub for some vital beer and food. Even although my Sirloin was tough, I was hungry enough to devour most if it, leaving a tasty treat of gristle and fat for that dog,
Talking about gristle and fat, reminds me of my monstrous pal Peachy Butterfield. It was the second time during the day he had come to mind; the first being at a pit stop at The Bankes Arms at Corfe Castle, where we got chatting to a chap who had with him a couple of whippets, that breed most beloved by chaps from up north. One of them had a leg missing, and that was when Peachy come to mind. How did that poor did lose its leg? Could it have been the victim of one of his road kill suppers? A nice leg of whippet in lard gravy? Anyway we talked to this chap for a while, but when it became apparent that he would have no use for an account with Currencies Direct, we drank up and left.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
Glut then famine
I am told by That Nice Lady Decorator that I have become too much of a Francophile and that I have forgotten how to appreciate the glories of England, but let me tell you that yesterday I appreciated it like seldom before. A planned late morning walk around the Sussex countryside in bright sunshine, albeit with sweaters, was a delight. A pint and a half of London Pride at the Partridge in Singleton a welcome venue for sustenance, and the walking to Charlton for lunch at The Fox Goes Free, where we even tried to sit in the sunshine for 5 minutes before retiring inside, was a quintessentially wonderful English winter experience, and one that I hope to emulate in the coming months. If the weather was like this all winter, then I would never have moved to France. Of course, it was an exception, an anomaly of chance, that two days after a hurricane, we were able to do this, but we did, I was there, and it was fab.
Earlier, I had walked 4 miles around the Norfolk Estate from where I took this picture, so with 7 miles if walking under my belt, I was ready to eat.
Mellow after a nice lunch, and having spent some due time considering the benefits of opening an account with Currencies Direct for all foreign currency transactions, we returned to the house for an afternoon nightcap, to light the fire, and in my case, to smoke a cigar from Havana whilst sitting in the inglenook fire-place, waiting for a pre evening siesta to embrace me. How much more English can you get? Well, apart from a the cigar and the siesta?
But then I have to nit pick. How can any self-respecting restaurant expect to be taken seriously when there is a range of wines available by the glass, but not a single red from the wine capital of the world, France? As Homer Simpson once said “if there was a law, it would be against it”. That Nice Lady Decorator was content with her glass of Rioja, whilst I struggled through on a glass of Australian Shiraz, but only after I had taken the management to task for this horrendous omission.
Perhaps I should not have made such a big thing about me being a writer for the Daily Telegraph (well I did write one article that they published) but standards need to be maintained and this, to my mind, was a dip in those standards that, had I not lunched so well, might have marked this pub down in the Chris France guide of where to go to eat in Sussex and the south of France.
Earlier we had discussed the pros and cons of eating red meat. I am of the opinion that Morrissey is a complete twat when it comes to eating properly, you only have to get a glance at his cadaverous, unhealthy appearance to know that whatever dietary guidance he is following is misguided. I know that red meat is something that is good for you although should be eaten sparingly. Don’t bother me with science, I just know.
That Nice Lady Decorator contended that her belly of pork was white meat, a contention that I opposed, but it seems that it is not clear-cut whether pork is red meat or white. It was a clear cut cut of meat but the colour remains a matter of disagreement. For myself, the rib-eyed steak afforded no such doubt. It was my second dose of red meat of the week, so I have managed to maintain the minimum intake advisable. I accept that it is advice I both give and accept.
Talking of food, yesterday was a day sandwiched between two diet days. It occurred to me that it is a very cruel expression to describe it as such, a day between diet days. Why does anything to do with food denial have to be named after food? Anyway, after a day of plenty, today will be a day of less than plenty. Such is life.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
Mr Clipboard red faced?
St Jude is the patron saint of depression and lost causes, so it was perhaps apt that St Jude’s day, which is today, should coincide with a particularly nasty bout of autumnal weather. Many of you reading this from Valbonne, may be surprised that St Jude is not the patron saint of Baileys, that nasty Irish liqueur so loved by our own wonderfully endowed Jude “where’s me Baileys” O Sullivan, but I digress.
It was billed as something close to a hurricane, which would have at least been interesting but in the end it was just another bad day at the office. Wind and rain are no strangers to me in the last week. Had the conditions been as extreme as we had been led to expect then it would at least have provided a bit of a spectacle.
Lunch yesterday at the very nice Old Swan at Chiddingfold, began with discussion about this incoming storm. We were there to meet Mr Clipboard and the lovely Ashley and had chosen a venue that is about half way between our tiny cottage in Arundel and their sweeping estate covering much of Surrey. Running his property empire has clearly caused him much anxiety and stress as can be seen from this photograph today. I think the red sunglasses set off his beetroot complexion perfectly. He could find some solace in using his existing Currencies Direct account more often, to ease the strain of his foreign exchange transactions.
Quite how the bill reached £200 is a little beyond me, although a 2009 Crozes Hermitage may have contributed somewhat. My rib of beef was superb and I even ate the Yorkshire pudding, something that I don’t always take to, but that may be because of the starvation diet to which I have been subjected twice during the week and again today. In these circumstances, please do not expect a funny and uplifting column tomorrow, although I know many of my readers expectations never reach those heights.
But back to yesterday. One of the things that attracted us to the house in Arundel was its proximity to the White Hart pub next door. So what is the point of being in this delicious situation and then not using it? There is another factor her as well. To get into out house from the back, one has to go through the pub garden, which gives an immediate insight into whether the pub is busy it not. It was busy. We went in. James “Desperate Dan” the landlord was ensconced at one of the tables with an open bottle of his house St Emilion in front of him, and so it seemed perfectly natural to purchase another and join him. Quite how soon we had another is a source of pleasure and shame in equal measure. Suffice to say that a splendid lost afternoon in the pub brought to an end a Sunday that had its fair share of highs and lows.
The first low of the day was as I sat in the car park of the Arundel Tennis Club, marooned in a shower of monstrous proportions, driven by a gale force wind. This is not the type of tennis weather to which I have become accustomed. However it cleared and the sun emerged and so I was able to pay some tennis and I can honestly say that I have not been beaten this year in England. I will not accept that the opposition, in the form is two sprightly girls well under 70, was in any way a push over, no, the Zimmer frames would have stopped that, and victory, however it comes, is sweet. Tennis was followed not be the customary beer, as it usually is in the south of France, but by coffee in the clubhouse, sheltering from the next shower. I must get used to it or I shall play no tennis,
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
Prepare for tempest, ark spotted in Chichester
I was half way around my 4 mile morning hike, thinking about the virtues of opening an account with Currencies Direct, when the rains came. Stupidly, with it being sunny when I set off, I had assumed, well, hoped that it would remain dry for an hour at least. I was wrong.
After drying out slightly, I told That Nice Lady Decorator that there were some errands I needed to run in the motorised scooter capital of the world, Littlehampton, or LA as it is known locally. I had dressed down for the occasion, with hoody, jogging trousers and waterproof wind cheater, not having a shell suit. I also donned some gloves so that I could hide the fact that I only had five digits on each hand, a rarity in LA, but there was no way to make my eyes closer together or my forehead higher, and although I did try to dribble a bit, something at which I am quite adept, I am sure that upon closer inspection, the locals would have known I was not local.
Anyway, on the way, we went to Clymping beach in order to empty the canine catastrophe, and, having walked earlier, I stayed in the car whilst That Nice Lady Decorator enjoyed a stroll in a squall or monstrous proportions. I told myself when we left France for the winter that I was prepared for this kind of weather but frankly I am not. It is time to look at the holiday brochures and reconsider Brisbane for the First Ashes Test between Australia and England later next month.
I took this picture of what may be the original ark on the canal at Chichester. I am not sure it will be seaworthy after all this time, but when the rains come again tonight, with the accompanying hurricane, I know where to go if it does not look like stopping.
A report reached me yesterday about a German study that had found that a man watching girls breast for 10 minutes a day was equivalent to 30 minutes of exercise in the gym, and reduced by 50% the chances of a heart attack or stroke. Now I am always one for a new fad health kick, and That Nice Lady Decorator is constantly searching for techniques that will keep us young and fit, so I think I will suggest it to her. Not immediately you understand, one has to pick the right moment, when she is mellow and receptive. It must happen some time, surely?
Lunch then, which was to have been based around a dog walk to a pub, became lunch without dogs due to the pesky weather. A pint of London Pride was taken at The Swan Hotel, a brief drying off spell, on the way for a couple of pints at the Kings Arms and then a last go at Boco Nuevo at The White Hart next door. I say last because the restaurant will close today and so far, nothing is a set to replace it. Any budding restaurateurs in Arundel? The pub and we need you,
At the Kings Arms we met up with Colin The Pirate and Sandra the sultry goddess, but they declined to join us for lunch due to the Pirate struggling with some painful dentistry work, probably from biting too many pieces of eight. However, we were joined by flame haired siren Carolyn and proceeded to restore all the damage done to my corpulent frame over the past three days of diet and restraint. There will be more lack of restraint today as well, as we are meeting mr Clipboard and his gorgeous wife Ashley at Chiddingfold. Must go now, cannot afford to be late with old Clipboard on the prowl.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
Gourdy or gaudy?
Apart from proper beer, there is another aspect to being back in England that I have missed; the eccentricity, and on some occasions the madness of the English. Arundel pays its respects to this trait with the Bath Tub challenge during the Arundel Festival, where people race up and down the River Arun on the tide (well, not always down as they have mostly sunk). The night before last on the local BBC TV news, there was a piece about a chap who was trying to, and had managed to set the record for canoeing 200 yards in a vegetable. It was a giant gourd that he had hollowed out and amazingly he was successful and completed the water course in just over two minutes. Now I am not sure what he would say to his children if they ever asked what he did when he was young. I mean a vegetable grower is fine, but if you drop the g, a vegetable rower does not have the same resonance, not for sane people.
But the lunacy does not stop there. Yesterday he went one step further by attempting, and succeeding, to motor across the Solent on another giant gourd, this time fitted with an outboard motor. I say step, but that would imply walking in water, which the Reverend Jeff thinks is possible but all grounded people know is not, although I get the same exalted feeling when I have moved some foreign exchange via Currencies Direct.
If one were a fan of poor puns, and this column was of a much lower standard than you have not come to expect, the writer may have been tempted to make a joke about what the madman was wearing during these attempts. The word gaudy springs to mind.
It was on the way back from a walk on the beach at West Wittering that I spotted this farm, celebrating the gourd. I can almost hear today’s limericks wittering on in the comments section. Pumpkin soup anybody?
My new policy is to try to walk 4 miles a day at 4 miles an hour in any weather. Yesterday was very pleasant on the beach, and it was even sunny for most of the time, but with my body shape still a little more rotund that I would like, we decided to skip the plan for lunch out and have a second day off the juice. Well, not the tomato juice, as that, with a decent serving of celery salt, Tabasco and Worcester Sauce at least make you think you are having a drink.
Instead of going for lunch, we went shopping. How depressing is that? There was one bright spot though. At the Dry Cleaners, That Nice Lady Decorator decided to go through the pockets of Sprog 1’s only smart jacket, which was no longer smart because of a nasty sick stain down the front. It was a mistake because in one of the pockets she found a condom, but as I said after we left the shop, at least it had not been used. Strangely It did not seem to placate her.
On Saturday, weather permitting, we have half a plan to walk over to the George at Burpham. It seems that they have now dispensed with the Dragon since the recent refurbishment, but I never knew her anyway. However the forecast is terrible for the morning, better in the afternoon but the same weather pattern that brought the hurricane when Michel Fish was in denial in 1987 is shaping up overnight for Sunday night. It is so nice that England has saved this up, just for me, after leaving the benign Provençal autumn for winter in the home country.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
Hotel Bourbon takes the biscuit
I suppose it had to happen. The rain started within an hour of leaving Bourges where we had spent the night at the Hotel Bourbon, and from where I took this picture of the wonderful interior which doubles as a restaurant. The hotel was not so wonderful the evening before when we were denied nightcap by a heavy-handed closure of the bar, full of hotel guests gagging for a drink. It was dubbed “Unhappy Hour” by That Nice Lady Decorator. Many of those left thirsty and disappointed were German, and I am certain that one of them said that if they were still in occupation nothing this stupid would ever have happened. Of course I don’t have any German myself, but that is the impression I formed. At passport control they were probably asked; Occupation? “No, just for a few days.”
So with the dreary weather closing in, of the type I must expect to have to endure in England for the next 7 months, ruining a planned lunch on the beach at Oiusterham, the ferry port, we were relegated to eating unappetising curly chicken curry sandwiches in the car whilst sitting in the queue for purgatory in the rain. Actually, I think Purgatory was the name of the Master Mariner Mundell’s house at his public school.
Once aboard we found our cabin was the size of a large hamster house, so adjourned to the bar to decide which of us was going to drive back from Portsmouth. It is a regular debate that, despite winning the argument every time, I always seem to lose. We had earlier had just enough time for a beer in an utterly unprepossessing bar near the port, and an even less appetising drink in the Brittany Ferries car ferry port. It was enough to put you off beer for life, at least that nasty gassy stuff that passes for beer in France. There is not a bar in the world that could put a real man off proper beer, such as London Pride, but gassy Heineken is a different matter.
Brittany Ferries proudly boast that there is Internet aboard. What they don’t tell you is that if more than 3 people attempt to get on-line at the same time, access speeds drop to the speed of a stunned tortoise. I managed to retrieve two emails and send one in 7 hours on board. I say bring back dial-up. It was more efficient. The network was called “on seas, when it should have been dubbed “on seas on Valium”.
Eventually, after a thoroughly over done rack of lamb, we sought on the refuge in the rabbit house cabin, where, tired from the exertions of recent days, I lay down to sleep. I managed this for at least 30 minutes before being awoken by That Nice Lady Decorator to be told that she could not sleep because of the vibration of the boat. Ten minutes later I was awoken again to be told that there was an electrical storm which I should witness. Then, over the next hour, I was awoken on probably a dozen occasions to be told about the same electrical storm (5 times) and that she could not sleep (4 times), and do you know what? surprisingly in her opinion, I found it difficult to sleep myself as well.
Arriving back in Arundel at 10 pm, there was just time for the that first pint of proper beer, whilst sitting down in the
Kings Arms with some London Pride to consider the events of the summer, and especially the success I have had with Currencies Direct when he happened upon Colin The Pirate and the sultry goddess Sandra, of which more tomorrow.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News















