Squid and skid marks
The Auberge St Donat is one of my favourite restaurants in the world. At first sight this may seem a curious choice. Much of it is set in a car park under a plastic cover, with the old parking bays visible in places beneath the tables. It offers a set menu each day. There is no choice. You get a cold starter, a hot starter, a main course, desert, coffee and, crucially, a quarter of a bottle of wine for a recently increased price of 16 euros. The fussy eaters amongst us tend to check the menu beforehand and ask for an alternative to the main course if the one offered is not to their taste. I prefer not to look and then try whatever is presented. I admit that, in the past, I have been presented with some courses which were not to my liking. Pigs trotters come to mind as does a type of brawn in a kind of green jelly. It is very French, wholesome food but, by the very nature of the menu being set, there is always a danger that you may happen across something you do not like.
That Nice Lady Decorator does not enjoy the establishment or rate its output as highly as I. In fact she has previously sworn that she would never set foot in the place again. However, time heals and when a gathering as large as yesterday’s (13) developed, she was persuaded to overcome her qualms and join us. It was supposed to have been a boys lunch, but in the end there were 4 girls in the party, but gratifyingly, two Currencies Direct clients.
The Decorating Person is not usually a picky eater but there are some things at which she will turn up her nose or become violent. Top of that list would by squid and pasta. It all started quite well with a nice hard-boiled egg salad for a starter, and I liked the home-made spring rolls which came next. She was OK with the salad but not convinced by the spring rolls. The problem arose when the main course arrived. Squid with pasta was about as unfortunate a choice by the chef as could be imagined. “Why have I got a plate full of tentacles?” she asked.
I think it is fair to say that she will not be persuaded again to join us for lunch there. In fact I am glad that there was not a dumb waiter in the restaurant otherwise she might have been tempted to get into it (as had happened the night before at the Chinese in Valbonne) and remonstrate with the cooks.
So after a long siesta, we awoke hungry and headed into the centre of Valbonne. With some rain around, we decided not to go to the Cafe Des Arcades, but to go to the much more up market Auberge Provençal across the Square on the first floor, where the food is very good, the ancient interior has been beautifully decorated and the ambience is very French. In fact I would say that it is my favourite restaurant in Valbonne, but not somewhere one would go every day. My lamb was excellent and The Decorators seared tuna a delight. A much more satisfying experience than had been the case at lunchtime.
There was one moment of controversy. Unusually I decided on a desert, which given my new sleek frame as a result if that 5:2 diet I felt that I could risk. I chose a chocolate dish with a name I cannot recall, but when it arrived, with some nouvelle cuisine designed chocolate smeared across the plate in what I thought was an attractive way, That Nice Lady Decorator ruined the moment by suggesting that it looked a bit like the skid marks one may find in some (not my own, obviously) underpants. It is my picture today. Despite this clear attempt to deny me pudding, I ate it all.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
Dumb waiter gets a ticking off
You know you are going to have trouble when Peachy Butterfield is in charge of arrangements. It is not so much that things don’t go well, it is just that he likes to leave a lot of time for aperitifs and is always punctual so as to maximise the amount of time for indulging.
With the Chinese restaurant in Valbonne booked for 7.30, the timing of aperitifs at 5.30 looked a tad early to me, but being in starvation rations for two days, and not having had a drink since Monday, I was gagging for the off. Peachy had thoughtfully arranged for the web, our outside bar, to be the venue for apero’s and so the pressure was in us to get the web straight for the first social occasion of the summer.
With everything newly painted and scrubbed by That Nice Lady Decorator, and with the sun shining, it was a perfect start to the evening, but with Simon “Chateau Gloria” having checked the wine list before heading to the restaurant in Valbonne, and a rather enthusiastic bout of over-imbibing, we decided to take a couple of bottles of St Emilion Grand Cru with us to the restaurant. I think that gives you some idea of how enthusiastic we had been.
Now to the restaurant. Having agreed corkage for our wine, and ordered, we waited and drank, and waited some more. After an hour or so in which time only a few miserly starters had appeared, That Nice Lady Decorator was getting restive. She does not do hunger well, and having, with me, just completed two 5:2 diet days on the trot, was beginning to digest herself from the inside. And that was her excuse for getting in to the dumb waiter as my picture today captures. She said she was going in search of the food. She failed.
My prawns in satay were delightful, spicy and perfect, however either the rest of the menu is not very good or my fellows diners chose unwisely, as the general consensus was that it was quite ordinary and took a long time to arrive. I think the jury is still out. We all had a great time, partly fuelled by that Grand Cru.
The Chinese is almost next door to La Kavanou, Valbonne’s wine bar of choice, and so it seemed perfectly reasonable to pop in for a night-cap. It was there that we espied satisfied Currencies Direct customer the Master Mariner Mundell, sucking on his e-cigarette outside. Thus Simon, who is an even bigger smoker of fine cigars than myself, produced two Monte Christo No 2’s and we joined him for a smoke in the balmy back streets of Valbonne. I love being back in the south of France. Doubtless I will love being back in Arundel in July. I have a great life.
The Master and I had a chat about the boys lunch at the Auberge St Donat today, but he seems to have misunderstood the whole concept. He has a girl friend over from the UK, whom he has invited, and he suggested that Dangerous Jackie Lawless should come, as well as That Nice Lady Decorator. I asked him if he had ever been to a boys lunch before, and did he know that the whole idea was to meet and eat to the exclusion of girls? Did he for instance know that it is supposed to be boys only? Clearly not. So with the male based foundations collapsing, lunch today will be a bisexual affair, if you get my drift (did you see what I did there? Mariner, drift?).
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
Unwise choice of colour
I thought I had got away without being properly Peachied on Thursday evening, despite much provocation in the form of Limoncello, the lemon based Italian liquor to which Peachy Butterfield is partial, however I had not reckoned on the Bucks Fizz that he insisted serving with breakfast yesterday morning. We had stayed overnight and needed be to ready to face a long day of shifting boxes and unpacking, and Peachy insisted that a couple of good stiff ones would get us in the mood. Whilst quite welcome when administered, they did not do anything to help when we commenced the task in hand.
Eventually, the house began to take shape in the late afternoon, just after Sprog 2 arrived home, ready to help. She had flown into Nice at 9am and it took her until 4 pm to get to Valbonne, due to a long standing luncheon engagement. It was a clear case of work avoidance, which, had it been me doing the avoiding, I would have been justifiable proud , but because her late arrival put pressure on me, I was less impressed. She clearly takes after her mother. Then as a reward, we gathered up Sprog 1, fresh from his job on the Costa Magna as an engineer/deckhand, and set off for the usual venue when first arriving back; Cafe Des Arcades in Valbonne Square.
I donned my light green stripey trousers and a lurid green sweater, waxed the handlebar moustache and picked out a fine Havana cigar for later, and was prepared for a splendid evening in my favourite square in my favourite provencal town with my family (all of them in one place – a rarity) and friends, but over the first of many glasses of wine, a ranting Irishman appeared demanding the 10 euros I owed him for a bet on the 6 Nations Rugby Tournament earlier in the year. You may remember that the French should have beaten Ireland but made a catastrophic mess of a certain try opportunity in the last minute, allowing Ireland to win the match and thus the competition instead of England, leaving me with a debt. The piratical John “800 years of repression” O Sullivan, a lookalike of whom is pictured above today, had walked into Valbonne Square with his lovely wife Jude “mine’s a Bailey’s”, spotted my green ensemble from some 70 yards and loudly approached to collect his winnings and congratulate me on choosing to wear the national colour of Ireland whilst setting my debt. I do think people who insist on sticking the banknotes from a wager onto their foreheads, and then having themselves photographed and that photo being placed on Facebook within 30 seconds of its taking are very juvenile. I accept that, had the result been different, then a different picture, perhaps of a resplendent author and Currencies Direct affiliate, sporting a bank note in such a fashion, would have been a gratifying picture.
I managed to shake off the irritation (read Mr O Sullivan left to go to the wine bar) and settled into a convivial dinner outside on the Square at the Cafe Des Arcades, returning home for a quick nightcap with Sprog 1, who finally received his 21st birthday present about 3 months late (a mega laptop) and spent half an hour talking to us whilst setting it up. This is the perfect illustration of the new generation gap. Kids can easily do technical computer stuff whilst holding a conversation after several drinks. My generation may be to do any of these three in isolation, but any combination of technical, talking and drinking would end in utter and abject failure.
Chris France
Robinson Crusoe lives
We set off on the rain from the lovely Lekeitio on the Spanish Basque coast, ready to do our duty and visit the acclaimed St Sebastian yesterday. Rain never helps anywhere look good, but I must reluctantly agree to revise my opinion of the city as the architecture here is exquisite, and a far cry from most that we have had to endure on Cantabria and Galicia. However, it is still a city and I have had enough of concrete in the past week, and with the rain persisting we did not stop.
With better weather promised over France, we pressed on to Biarritz, over the border into France, and on a long walk along the beautiful wild coast just outside the town, came across a beach restaurant at just the right moment. By the right moment I mean lunch time. Peter Maile who wrote “A Year In Provence” was once asked to describe the south of France in one word. His reply was “lunch”, and it holds good for all of southern France. Of course the prices are utterly different to those we have experienced in Spain, particularly in the west, but then so was the quality of the food. Excellent gambas and more Padron Peppers could not be complemented by the glass of wine I craved as I was designated driver. I am always designated driver. However, the setting was marvellous, the meal superb and I have fallen in love with Biarritz, and not just because the sun made an appearance.
It was that sun that put paid to a trip out, after our return to base, to checkout a couple of local establishments in the early evening. Our hotel has a lovely terrace overlooking the bay and a beautiful island and there is a spit of sand at low tide that allows access to it at low tide. I wanted to walk across to it, but was told that by the time we reached it, the tide would have covered it again and we would not be able to get across. Instead we settled for a beer on the terrace and to watch the tide. We resolved to rise early this morning when the tide will be low and walk across then. However, as I had predicted, an hour be two beers later? The spit of sand was still visible, and, as I pointed out loudly and vociferously, had That Nice Lady Tidemaster listened to me, we could have ticked that one off without the need to set the alarm for the middle of the night. I mean 7am? That is a barbaric time to be forced from ones pit, however, we were only just in time as my photo of the Tidemaster being the last to leave shows.
Today, after spending a short time on pressing matters connected with the excellent services of Currencies Direct, we are on a mission from god. Although I am hazy on anything religious, I do tend to make a bit more effort to understand if there is wine involved, and there is some religious mumbo-jumbo about wine and the blood of god or something equally obscure, and wine is certainly going to be involved. The Rioja region is nearby, just a short distance from Pamplona, and it is not bull shit to say that one of my favourite wine regions is Le Rioja. I shall be running (did you see what I did there?) around the area today on that mission, to collect up as much of the stuff that we can pack in the car. If only we were able to turn that fugitive dog into the hands of the judiciary, for punishment for trespass (if I were the judge, I would be looking for my black cap), then we would have so much more space for much more valuable merchandise.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News
At last, a pretty fishing village
Having stopped at another diabolical concrete jungle of a Spanish resort called Laredo, predictably labelled as “charming” by the crap Eye Witness Guide, on the way from Ribedeo, we settled over some indifferent raciones (tapas only bigger) to look at the guides for details about our intended destination, St Sebastian, on the northern Spanish coast. So appalled were we by the pictures and the guide details, we changed our plans, and instead decided to visit the Basque Country.
Let me go back to that meal. Yesterday I had been saying that one of the redeeming features of this coastline was how inexpensive and decent had been the food. Yesterday we found the exception. “Special white artichokes” turned out to be of the specially tinned variety. The gambas were overdone and frankly the only thing that was reasonable were the anchovies. It as also twice the price of recent meals. However, it was mid afternoon and we were hungry.
Many people whom I had previously trusted had said good things about St Sebastian, but I have had enough of soulless concrete everywhere, so we consulted the terrible guide and took a chance on a place called Lekeitio on the Basque coast, and eureka! it is beautiful. Finally we have found the charming fishing port that we had been promised so many times in the past week. The first peek at the town was paradoxically depressing. After a 10 mile drive through steeply wooded hills, and with the odd house being a much more hospitable alpine style, our hopes that this town had managed to avoid the planning and construction pitfalls that had befallen almost every other town into which we had ventured on the Galician and Cantabrian coasts, the first concrete horrors were visible through a cleft in the hills. However, things improved dramatically as we got into this lovely old town.

OK, this is a crap picture which does not capture the island, the port or the beaches, but it is raining this morning…
We found a hotel in the centre, with private parking and with a sea and harbour view that was beautiful, huge and cheap. We have decided to make it out base for tonight as well, having been constantly disappointed over the past week. One other good thing about this hotel, the Aisia Lekeitio, which to be honest, is in keeping with all other Spanish hotels, is that they don’t allow dogs through their doors. Hence that renegade from the law, Banjo, who has so far escaped justice for his blatant criminal trespass on a beach clearly marked as prohibited to dogs a few days ago, has slept in the car. That means he has not been slobbering, scratching and snoring in my bedroom. That has been the exclusive domain of That Nice Lady Decorator (can you tell she is not reading this daily column dedicated to the furtherance of the influence of Currencies Direct at the moment?).
We headed out into the pretty harbour side and square for a restorative beer, and found a fabulous little bar run by a young Basque couple who spoke enough English to give us some proper guidance as to what to see today. They were of a similar opinion about San Sebastián and have given our tour guide, That Nice Lady Tour Guide loads of useful tips about where to go, A tour of the area is in store today, perhaps with a token visit to St Sebastian just to make sure. I do hope that a Basque museum is on the itinerary, I have always been a fan of that style of clothing, although not necessarily for myself you understand.
Chris France
@Valbonne_News














